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The United Corset
Designed by Chiaki Shimizu for Bulgari Mecenate X Tokyo University of the Arts Exhibit
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The ‘UNITED CORSET’ represents both Western and Eastern cultures. It was inspired by a traditional Italian craft called ‘needle lace,’ which originated in the 15th century. The corset was formed using Japanese traditional paper Ogawa washi, which has a long history dating back about 1300 years. The washi was created by hand. I then cut it in the needle lace style with a laser cutter. The final step was to cover it with Japanese traditional lacquer, Urushi, which is the sap of the Urushi tree. Urushi was used to make Japanese armor because it is both solid and durable. So, in addition to uniting Eastern and Western cultures, this corset combines Japanese washi constructed using the delicate, Italian needle lace technique with tough, solid Urushi.
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The Snake
Serenpenti is snake in Italian, and it has been an icon for Bvlgari since 1948. In the Roman era, the word snake implied intelligence, vitality and sensuality. Snakes are also significant in Japanese mythology. Japan’s most famous serpent is Yamata no orochi, who was believed by the ancient Japanese to be a god. A story in Nihonshoku (the Chronicle of Japan) is about the eight-headed Yamata no orochi that terrorized villagers and demanded maidens be sacrificed to him. He was slain by the storm god, Susanoo, who received a powerful sword from the serpent’s dead body. |
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I included a star on the center of the corset to represent the brilliance of the sword that came from the serpent’s body. I understand that Japanese people were awed by the majesty of snakes since ancient periods, a concept that has much in common with Serenpenti for Bvlgari.
The Modern Corset
Currently there is much discussion about women breaking away from their traditional roles through the #metoo movement. Once women were protected by men, and corsets were an iconic symbol of these periods because the tight corsets constrained women and prevented them from strenuous activity. Although the use of corsets has diminished over the years, they are recently making a comeback and are popular with fashionistas, like those who engage in fetishism and Lolita fashion. Corsets are still loved as both fashion and costume items. Therefore, corsets will be part of fashion’s future, in the East and the West, but their purpose and style will continue to change over time.
Currently there is much discussion about women breaking away from their traditional roles through the #metoo movement. Once women were protected by men, and corsets were an iconic symbol of these periods because the tight corsets constrained women and prevented them from strenuous activity. Although the use of corsets has diminished over the years, they are recently making a comeback and are popular with fashionistas, like those who engage in fetishism and Lolita fashion. Corsets are still loved as both fashion and costume items. Therefore, corsets will be part of fashion’s future, in the East and the West, but their purpose and style will continue to change over time.
Shimizu has a Ph.D. in Design from the Tokyo University of the Arts. She is inspired by, among other things, philosophy, history, social problems and art. Shimizu pursues fashion as both art and wearable clothes. Currently, her focus is on sustainability and Japanese traditional techniques. She designs not only garments, but also the space surrounding them. In 2019, she designed costumes for a show in Japan directed by the leading Israeli contemporary dancer Ella Rothschild, and exhibited her own designs in a capsule collection at Paris Fashion Week in 2020.
